Every active, humectant, emollient, acid, and peptide used in modern skincare - broken down by science, not marketing.
Adenosine
Reduces fine lines, firms skin, anti-inflammatory
Exfoliation, brightening, smoothing, anti-aging
Allantoin
Soothes irritation, promotes cell renewal, softens skin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Soothes, cools, hydrates, mild anti-inflammatory
Alpha-Arbutin
Hyperpigmentation, dark spots, uneven tone
Thioctic Acid
Antioxidant protection, reduces fine lines, brightens
Hydration, barrier repair, skin conditioning
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Nourishes, softens, antioxidant, anti-aging
Ascorbic Acid
Collagen synthesis, brightening, UV protection synergy
Persea Gratissima Oil
Deep moisturisation, barrier repair, anti-inflammatory
Azelaic Acid
Acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, anti-inflammatory
Bakuchiol
Anti-aging, firmness, reduces fine lines
Bentonite
Deep cleansing, pore minimising, oil absorption
Benzoyl Peroxide
Acne, kills P
Beta-Glucan
Intense hydration, wound healing, anti-inflammatory
Pore clearing, acne, blackheads, anti-inflammatory
Biotin
Supports keratin synthesis, strengthens hair and nails
(-)-alpha-Bisabolol
Soothes irritation, anti-inflammatory, accelerates healing
Butylene Glycol
Hydration, texture enhancer, boosts ingredient penetration
Caffeine
Reduces puffiness, dark circles, antioxidant, anti-cellulite
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Anti-inflammatory, wound healing, soothing
Centella Asiatica Extract
Wound healing, soothing, anti-aging, barrier repair
Ceramide NP, AP, EOP, etc.
Barrier repair, moisture retention, eczema, dry skin
Cholesterol
Barrier repair, moisture retention
Citric Acid
Mild exfoliation, pH adjustment, antioxidant
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant, anti-aging, energises skin cells
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Surface hydration, plumping, conditioning
Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu)
Wound healing, collagen/elastin production, antioxidant
Ectoin
Barrier protection, anti-inflammatory, moisturising
Epigallocatechin-3-Gallate
Powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Surface hydration, skin elasticity appearance
Gallic Acid
Antioxidant, mild brightening, anti-inflammatory
Gluconolactone
Gentle exfoliation, hydration, antioxidant, barrier support
Glycerin
Intense hydration, barrier support, softening
Glycolic Acid
Exfoliation, anti-aging, brightening, hyperpigmentation
Hyaluronic Acid, Chondroitin, etc.
Hydration, anti-aging, plumping
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Lightweight moisturiser, antioxidant, mildly astringent
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV protection, anti-aging
Hesperidin
Antioxidant, strengthens capillaries, brightening, anti-aging
Hexylresorcinol
Hyperpigmentation, brightening, anti-aging
Sodium Hyaluronate / Hyaluronic Acid
Intense hydration, plumping, surface smoothing
Hydroquinone
Hyperpigmentation, melasma, dark spots
Kaolin
Gentle cleansing, oil absorption, pore minimising
Kinetin
Anti-aging, antioxidant, reduces pigmentation
Kojic Acid
Hyperpigmentation, dark spots, melasma
Kombucha Ferment Filtrate
Antioxidant, microbiome support, brightening, pH balance
Lactic Acid
Gentle exfoliation, hydration, NMF support, brightening
Lactobionic Acid
Gentle exfoliation, hydration, antioxidant, barrier support
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Brightening, anti-inflammatory, hyperpigmentation
Linoleic Acid
Barrier repair, anti-inflammatory, reduces acne
Lutein
Antioxidant, blue light protection, anti-aging
Lycopene
Antioxidant, UV damage mitigation, anti-aging
Madecassoside
Wound healing, anti-inflammatory, soothing, collagen
Mandelic Acid
Gentle exfoliation, hyperpigmentation, acne, anti-aging
Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen
Surface hydration, film-forming, skin conditioning
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Anti-aging, collagen and elastin stimulation, wrinkle reduction
Mica
Light reflection, radiance, shimmer
Paraffinum Liquidum
Moisture retention, barrier protection
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Hydration, antioxidant, anti-aging, soothing
N-Acetyl Glucosamine
Brightening, hyperpigmentation, barrier repair, hydration
Niacinamide
Brightening, pore-minimising, barrier repair, sebum control, anti-inflammatory
Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract
Antioxidant, skin brightening, anti-aging
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Soothes itch and irritation, barrier repair, anti-inflammatory
Oleic Acid
Deep moisturisation, barrier repair, skin softening
Various Oligopeptides
Collagen stimulation, anti-aging, repair
Panthenol
Hydration, wound healing, soothing, anti-inflammatory
Various
Collagen/elastin stimulation, anti-aging, repair, hydration
Petrolatum
Moisture sealing, barrier repair, wound healing
Gluconolactone, Lactobionic Acid
Gentle exfoliation, antioxidant, hydration, barrier-friendly
Lecithin, Phosphatidylcholine
Barrier repair, enhances ingredient penetration, cell membrane support
Polyglutamic Acid
Intense hydration, plumping, boosts HA efficacy
Lactobacillus Ferment, etc.
Microbiome balance, barrier support, anti-inflammatory
Propanediol
Hydration, texture enhancer, boosts penetration
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, skin-calming, UV-protective
Resveratrol
Antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, photoprotection
Retinaldehyde
Anti-aging, acne, brightening, pigmentation
Retinol
Anti-aging, fine lines, acne, brightening, texture
Retinyl Palmitate
Gentle anti-aging, antioxidant
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Anti-aging, brightening, barrier repair, hyperpigmentation
Salicylic Acid
Acne, blackheads, pore-clearing, oil control, anti-inflammatory
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Rich antioxidants, healing, anti-aging, hyperpigmentation
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Deep moisturisation, barrier repair, anti-inflammatory
Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, etc.
Smooth texture, moisture sealing, optical blur, scar treatment
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant, brightening, anti-acne, collagen
Sodium Hyaluronate
Deep hydration (smaller molecule than HA)
Sodium PCA
Hydration, part of skin's NMF
Squalane
Moisturising, barrier support, antioxidant, non-comedogenic
Squalene
Skin identical moisturiser, antioxidant
Titanium Dioxide
Broad-spectrum UV protection (UVA/UVB)
Tocopherol
Antioxidant, moisturising, soothing, UV synergy
Tranexamic Acid
Hyperpigmentation, melasma, PIH, brightening
Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid)
Anti-aging, acne, hyperpigmentation, texture
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, brightening, wound healing
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant, energises cells, anti-aging
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Hydration, anti-aging, antioxidant, skin smoothing
Urea
Hydration, exfoliation (high %), barrier repair, itch relief
Ursolic Acid
Anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, muscle tone (oral), antimicrobial
See Retinol, Retinal, Tretinoin
Anti-aging, acne, brightening, texture — see specific forms
See Niacinamide
See Niacinamide entry
See Panthenol
See Panthenol entry
See Ascorbic Acid / Derivatives
See Ascorbic Acid entry
See Tocopherol
See Tocopherol entry
Phytonadione / Vitamin K1
Dark circles (periorbital), reduces bruising, rosacea-related redness